Orange Wine

Orange wine?  Yes, orange wine.  But, orange as in the color orange and not wine made from oranges.  Cindee and I had our first taste of orange wine at Terra Madre in 2018 at one of the dinners we attended.

The chef that evening was Ana Roš.  Ana and her husband own Hiša Franko in Kobarid, Slovenia.  Ana sources ninety-five percent of her core ingredients from the surrounding area, including game from local hunters and seafood from a saltwater lagoon fifty kilometers from the restaurant.

That evening, Ana paired the trout dish she prepared with a Radikon Ribolla white wine.  A fantastic combination, the tonka vinegar balanced nicely with the subtle sour notes of the orange wine to create a pleasant combination of flavors with the trout providing the centerpiece of the plating.

What makes orange wine so interesting is that while it is a white wine, it has many unique characteristics which stand out from other types of white wine.  The wine is vinified as thought it were a red.  Deep orange yellow in color with a myriad of aromas: nuts, dried
Trout, whey, poppy seeds, beetroot with tonka vinegar
apricots, lemon, orange, fennel & sage.

 Orange wine, also known as skin-contact white wine, skin-fermented white wine, or amber wine, is a type of wine made from white grapes grapes where the grape skins are not removed, as in typical white wine production, and stay in contact with the juice for days or even months. This contrasts with conventional white wine production, which involves crushing the grapes and quickly moving the juice off the skins into the fermentation vessel. The skins contain color pigment, phenols, and tannins that would normally be considered undesirable for white wines, while for red wines skin contact and maceration is a vital part of the winemaking process that gives red wine its color, flavor, and texture.


Smyth and Loyalist

Website

Location
177 North Ada Street,
Chicago, IL 60607
(773) 913-3773

The name "Smyth" is an homage to the depth and richness of John Shields and Karen Urie Shields’ five wonderful years in the farmlands of Smyth County, Virginia, where they expanded their knowledge and vision and found their voice. They bring this sensibility back to their Chicago culinary roots to create thoughtful dishes from pristine products — dishes that are imaginative, yet humble and grounded.

Change is a big part of what makes Smyth different from other tasting menu restaurants. Not just seasonally or weekly but on a daily basis with subtle changes often occurring mid-service. (Listen closely and you might hear John say, “Omaha!” as a reference to quarterback Peyton Manning and code to his chefs he’s changing a dish.) The food carefully walks that fine line between providing something new while also bringing a sense of the familiar.

The restaurant’s informal atmosphere features an open kitchen surrounded by intimate tables and a cozy living room-style lounge. From the warm greeting you receive upon entering until your final goodbye, we invite you to feel at home.

Cindee and I had the "Omaha" dinner.  Atmosphere was fabulous, staff were engaging and funny, great music, great view of the kitchen, overall a fantastic experience.  Highly recommended!


First Course
Capital Oyster, Green Strawberries & Cream
Pairing: NV Charles Heidsieck 'Brut Reserve'; Reims




Second Course
Uni Glazed in Egg Yolk & Habanada Peppers



Third Course
Pickled Shima Aji & Sweet Barley with Nasturtium
Pairing: Ichinokura 'Kura No Hana' Junmai Daiginjo, Miyagi

 



Fourth Course
Shima Aji Ribs Barbecued Over Spruce



Fifth Course
Kohlrabi, Seaweed & Country Ham (Not PIctured)
Pairing: 2015 Ingrid Groiss 'Pankraz' Reserve, Weinviertel



Sixth Course
White Asparagus with Dungeness Crab
Pairing: 2014 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Grosses Gewachs Josephshofer, Mosel



Seventh Course
Dungeness Crab with Rhubarb Root





Eighth Course
Carmalized Halibut with Yeast & Guinea Hen Jus
Pairing: 2007 Lagar De Besada 'Anada De Baladina', Rias Baixas




Ninth Course
Spot Prawn with Shiitake & Rhubarb



Tenth Course
Coal Roasted Wagyu



Eleventh Course
Beets 'Royale' & Caviar
Pairing: 2013 Bruno Clair 'Les Champs Perdrix', Vosne Romanee





Twelfth Course
Lamb with Sweet Annie & Blackened Malt



Thirteenth Course
Lacquered Squab, Quince, Black Truffle & Rosehip
Pairing: 2012 Cordero Di Montezemolo 'Enrico VI', Barolo






Fourteenth Course
Milk Chocolate, Raspberry Preserves & Shiitake Mushrooms



Fifteenth Course
Farm Milk Ice Cream, Maple Syrup & Chickweed
Pairing: 1975 Chateau Riveyrac 'La Cuvee Des Aigles', Rivesaltes




Sixteenth Course
Green Almonds with Plum Pit Kombucha & Lemongrass
Pairing: 2017 Kracher Beerenauslese, Austria




Seventeeth Course
Kombu Ice Cream Sandwich
Seaweed Caramel Tart
Dried Sweet Corn & Sour Squash Curd





Digestifs
Crema Earl Grey, Anhui, China
Suntory Hibiki "Japanese Harmony" Blended Whiskey, Japan



Ichinokura Sake


Ichinokura Junmai
Daiginjo Kuranohana Sake


Ichinokura was established in 1973, by combining four breweries into one, each of which had a 100 to 300 year history in Miyagi prefecture. The brewery was founded with the purpose of brewing the best quality sake as well as promoting agriculture and revitalizing the region through the cooperation of the brewing industry.  The brand, Ichinokura "ace brewery" expresses the wish to become the #1 brewery by combining four of them into one. The main brewery is in Matsuyama-cho, a gorge in deep forest with clean, fresh air, blessed with abundant underground water and rice - ideal elements for sake brewing.

IWC Gold Medal winner, this Junmai Daiginjo was painstakingly brewed using Kuranohana rice. It has a mellow nose, splash of citrus lime, stone fruits with underlying rice and powder notes. Sweet first impression. Excellent palate structure and good interplay of acidity. It has a distinctive flavour which possesses both elegance and depth you will be sure to enjoy.


Suntory Hibiki

HIBIKI JAPANESE HARMONY
"Kanzen" or complete, Hibiki Whisky is a harmonious blend of innumerous malt and grain whiskies which are meticulously blended to create a full orchestra of flavors and aromas. Seductive, blossoming and enigmatic, Hibiki Whisky celebrates an unrivaled art of blending, fine craftsmanship and a sense of luxury from the House of Suntory.

Hibiki was launched in 1989 to commemorate Suntory’s 90th anniversary, and has ever since been embraced as the paragon of The Art of Japanese Whisky, the very product of Japanese nature and her people. Hibiki Whisky is not only Japan’s most highly awarded blended whisky, but among the most prestigious and honoured whiskies in the world.

Tjöruhúsið

In the small fishing community of Ísafjörður, Iceland is the absolutely fantastic restaurant Tjöruhúsið where I may have had the best fish I've ever tasted in my life.

Tjöruhúsið is a family owned and operated restaurant and only serves catch of the day, hence no menu on display. Generally you can
 expect to feast on wolffish, cod, halibut, bacalao, redfish, and spotted catfish.  They also serve a langoustine and tomato based fish soup and (if you're in luck) traditional Icelandic fish stew (Plokkfiskur).  The food is served buffet style and seating is community style at tables.  You'll likely have a table to yourself if your party is large enough.  If not, you'll have a chance to meet new people as you are enjoying the feast.

On our visit there today for lunch, in addition to the fabulous fish soup, we had halibut, haddock, salt fish (salted cod), steelhead trout, and plokkfiskur. There was other food to accompany all the fish but I didn't bother with it as what I was eating was so good I wanted every bit of goodness I could get (Cindee said the curried potato salad was very good).


If you are adventurous and ever make your way to 
Ísafjörður, make sure you eat at 
Tjöruhúsið. You will not be disappointed.









Riazul Tequila

My history with tequila, like many of you perhaps, is steeped in times of old when in college I would do tequila poppers with my college roommate.  Most of those stories are not family friendly so if you want to hear any of them, you'll have to ask me in person next time we're together.  What I will say is that my days of drinking Jose Cuervo 1800 are long gone!

All that being said, I've always known that on the upper end, tequila has a formidable pedigree and you can find many fine tequilas akin to good sipping whiskeys.  I have never explored really good tequila so I was taken by surprise when I had one at the recommendation of the bartender at a local Grand Rapids restaurant, Donkey Taqueria.

Located in the highlands of Jalisco, Riazul has the best conditions to produce their tequilas.  The land is known for its high mineral content and microclimate which guarantees top of the line agave nectar, resulting in a richer, fuller spirit.  Sweet aromas of cinnamon, spicy pineapple, and rich banana cake lead to a smooth, medium bodied spirit with vibrant flavors of caramel, agave, almond, vanilla, and spice.  This balanced, complex tequila is truly unique and is best enjoyed neat in order to experience the full range of flavors.

I drink this tequila as a dessert drink after a meal.  It's caramel and vanilla notes are sweet and succulent.  Simply fantastic and my absolute favorite tequila bar none.


Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy

I really enjoy calvados which is a French apple brandy.  Until recently, I had been drinking French products as the American versions of apple brandy were not to my liking.  I found them a bit thin and not as full flavored as I prefer.  On a recent trip I ran across an American apple brandy which the bartender suggested was far more like the French calvados I enjoy.  So, I gave it a try and really like it.  So much so that I think it will be my go-to for the time being to support both local producers and heirloom food products.

Founded in 1982 in Mendocino County, California, Germain-Robin makes superb brandy using an antique pot still and aging in air-dried Limousin oak. This brandy is made from heirloom apples from the Anderson Valley. It’s a beautiful light amber color in a bottle with a label that looks like a Georgia O’Keeffe still-life.

Tasting Notes: It smells like sweet, very ripe apples — luscious, spicy and welcoming. The taste is super rich and roasty with a kick of brown sugar and a nice amount of heat. Drink it on its own, with your morning coffee (French style), or mixed into some apple cider for a simple cocktail.

I buy mine online at Caddell Williams

Source Article: Best American Apple Brandies


The Family Tree of Bourbon

The chart below shows the major distilleries operating in Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana, grouped horizontally by corporate owner, then subdivided by distillery.  Each tree shows the type of whiskey made, and the various expressions of each style of whiskey or mash bill, in the case of bourbons.




Old Rip Van Winkle Bourbon



Why Weller and Pappy Are Almost the Same
Stitzel-Weller closed in 1992 and today, W. L. Weller 12 and Pappy Van Winkle are both produced at Buffalo Trace's distillery. Basically, Weller 12 Year Old is made of Pappy that didn't quite make the cut for Pappy Van Winkle Lot B 12 year. That's why many say it as close to Pappy as you can get -- for a whole lot less.

Full Article: Why W.L. Weller Bourbon Is Almost Pappy Van Winkle











Terra Madre Dinner 25Sept2016


From Sous to Top

Results only come with effort, and victory only with sacrifice. Sous-chefs, the lieutenants of haute-cuisine kitchens, working in the shadow of their bosses, know this very well. This evening’s dinner will be prepared by five chefs who served as second-in-command in some of Italy’s most renowned kitchens, where they refined their technique and creativity. Through their dishes, Pierpaolo Livorno of the Albergo dell’Agenzia in Pollenzo, Marco Visciola of Marin at Eataly in Genoa, Federico Zanasi of Principe delle Nevi in Cervinia, Yoji Tokuyoshi of Tokuyoshi in Milan and Marcello Rapisardi of Pasticceria & Dessert in Milan will be telling the story of the skills they learned and made their own. The dishes will be accompanied by wines from Batasiolo from La Morra (Cuneo).


Dinner Menu and Wine Pairing

Amuse Bouche #1 - Tar Tar

Amuse Bouche #2

Amuse Bouche #3

Gyotaku

Finanziera of the Sea (Sea urchin, fish offal, assorted vegetables)

Risotto, rose powder, Salina capers and red fruits

Goat, acid milk, spiced cranberry, and elderberry vinegar

Beet, gianduja chocolate, raspberry, and liquorice

 Pastries from Marcello Rapisardi's Pasticceria