Ratamacue Stew: May 2016

A Weekend with Grant Achatz (Not Really)

Grant Achatz

Cindee and I do enjoy food. Cooking it, eating it, the flavors, the variety, the history, the relationship to human cultures, the impact to our environment, and the shared experiences with friends and loved ones when food is part of our life rituals. We often watch the various food channels, enjoy most of the food related movies, and appreciate the variety of cuisine we experience locally, nationally, and abroad.

As with others forms of art like music, painting, sculpture, and writing, when you have an opportunity to experience someone with immense talent, it is an experience not to be missed. Savored to be sure, if you'll pardon the pun, as life is too short. So, it was with great pleasure that Cindee and I had an opportunity this Memorial Day weekend to spend a few days in Chicago where we were able to partake and enjoy the creative mastery of Grant Achatz.

We had two very different dinners at two of Grant's restaurants - Alinea and Next. Both restaurants are in Chicago. Alinea is known for preparations and deconstructions of classic flavors. In 2010, Alinea became one of only two restaurants in Chicago to receive the highest rating of three Michelin stars. Alinea was closed on January 1, 2016 for five months of extensive renovation and reopened on May 20, 2016. I was ecstatic when I received an email from Alinea announcing its reopening and limited availability of reservations which coincided with our trip to Chicago.

Next is Grant's second Chicago restaurant. Next has an interesting "ticketed" format where unlike a traditional reservation system, Next sells pre-priced tickets for specific dates and times like a theater, concert, or sporting event are sold. As to the food at Next, rather than stick with one type of cuisine, Next completely changes its style every few months, focusing on a different time period, parts of the world, or various abstract themes for each "season" of its menu. The theme for our visit was South America and on the night we ate there, our menu was based on the country of Peru.

So enough talking, it's time for the pictures. Below are both our menus from Alinea and Next along with the wine pairings for each course. We thoroughly enjoyed both restaurants and will go back again when we have the opportunity. Buon appetito!

Alinea Dinner

Trout Roe, Banana Coconut Creme Fraiche
Pairing: Bollinger "La Grande Annee" Champagne, France 2004
(The bowl is actually a chunk of ice!)

Scallop "Paper", Corn Butter Consume, Shio Kombu Nori
Pairing: Domaine Gerard Duplessis "Montee de Tonnerre"
Chablis 1er Cru, France 2013

Sweet Potato, Curry, Yolks
Pairing: Billecart-Salmon Demi-Sec Champagne, France NV

Pea Parmesan Lavender, Apple Yuzu Lemon Verbena
Pairing: Hirtzberger, 'Honivogl" Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd Wachau, Austria 2011

Icefish Kumquat Radish
Pairing: Robert Weil "Kiedrich Turmberg" Reisling
Rheingau, Germany 2010

Morel Blueberry Lapsang Souchong
Pairing: Jamsheed, "Beechworth" Syrah, Yarra Valley Australia 2014

Onion Purple Allium Black Pepper

Fire Bowl - Mezcal wood with Star Anise
Pairing: Mezcal, Del Maguey "San Luis del Rio Azul" Mexico

Chicken and Palo Santo Pineapple

Plum, Almond, Cinnamon Bon Bon
Pairing: Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Leognan Blanc
Bordeaux, France 2009

Cloche - Beef Cheeks (Under Leaf) and Chamomile Melon

Bone - Wagyu Rice Myoga

Lamb Blackberry Black Garlic
Pairing: Robert Biale Vineyards "Black Chicken",
Zinfandel, Napa Valley, California 2014

Strawberry Helium Edible Balloon

Rhubarb Campari Anise Strawberry with Anise Cotton Candy
Pairing: Antonelli Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito
Umbria, Italy 2009

Cherry Chocolate Bourbon

Next Dinner

Raspadilla - chicha morada, cassia, leche

Pisco Sour

Ceviche - banana & passionfruit, corn & chocolate, aji, lime & orange

Tiradito - mackerel, kombu, peanut, cactus fruit
Pairing: Leche de Tigre

Hanging above every table was a basket with goodies

Basket deconstructed - corn nuts, pico de gallo, bottle of Chicha de Jora

Picanteria - casabe, canchita, solterito de queso, empanada, rocoto relleno, anticucho
Pairing: 2013 Louis-Antoine Luyt, Clos ouvert Carmenere, Maule Valley, Chile